Yesterday in the Italian city of Lecce, on a completely empty cathedral square, a show of the Dior cruise collection took place, which was seen by hundreds of thousands of people. And Dior’s creative director for makeup, Peter Philips, gave the first Zoom interview in his life, at which Yana Zubtsova was present among a hundred beauty journalists.
2020 is apparently such a fun year when a lot happens for the first time. And for the first time in several years, I became interested in shows and backstages again. How the old fashion adapts (and adapts) to the new realities depends, among other things, on how the new world will look.
They say that Maria Grazia Curie chose this location – Italy, Apulia, Duomo Square in Lecce – in November 2019, when nothing boded. Because this is her father’s hometown, and I wanted to fall back to basics. When it was foretold, and everyone was quarantined, the show dates were shifted (the show was originally planned for May). And then it was decided to conduct it online.
And, in fact, it was not a fashion show, but a full-fledged performance in which models, musicians and dancers participated (and in which, not counting them, about 1000 people were involved).
It is difficult to say what was the main thing here – the outfits of Maria Grazia, which, according to the concept, were supposed to refer to authentic fashion, but in fact they often rhymed either with the clothes of pretty nuns, or with the outfit of sisters of mercy …
or choreography by Sharon Eyal …
… or the voice of Giuliano Sagniorgi, who gave a real concert after the show.
If the show was running as usual, they would all receive the applause of the audience in equal shares. And so they clapped to each other. But there was something about that too. More precisely, that was all.
You can see the entire show on YouTube. Look, it’s worth it.
And five hours before the show, Dior’s creative director of make-up gave an interview for the first time in his life to journalists on Zoom and at the end, embarrassedly admitted that it was rather strange feeling – to answer, looking at your own image on the camera.
However, I think this was the first time he worked in a mask on the backstage:
The means with which this time he painted the models were few:
Primers used Dior Backstage Face and Body Primer, all shades of Forever Skin Correct, and all shades tonal Dior Backstage Face and Body Foundation… This was explained simply: “The models were of a wide variety of skin colors.”.
But a lot of preliminary skincare work was done: “I love Capture Totale CELL Energy Super Potent Serum. It gives an instant moisturizing effect, the skin is immediately smoothed. Plus Capture Totale CELL Energy cream. It is quickly absorbed and, by the way, the tone fits perfectly. And keeps well “.
In Apulia, according to Peter, it was hot. Not every cream + tone combination would pass the test of durability. Even considering that the show was in the evening, the backstage lasted longer than usual:For all of you understandable security reasons, we could do makeup at the same time for no more than 10 girls. Usually, about 50 people sit on the backstage, but here it was necessary to maintain a distance. Plus we had two backstages: one for the models, the other for the dancers. They had a more dramatic make-up, a bit so … fatal. And the models had to do … yes, one might say, a casual cool light look. But so that he can hold out until the evening. In this sense, the tone of the Backstage Face and Body Foundation is unmatched. “.
Powder Peter Phillips almost never used: “Only on the T-zone for girls who have oily skin. I wanted to achieve a clean, even, glowing complexion. The entire collection of Maria Grazia Curie is about inner strength and light. She repeated, “This is my father’s land. And the land of strong women. ” This was an inspiration to me. Have you seen the crazy illumination that was done around the Duomo? A million lights. They had to be reflected in the eyes of the models “.
He also did not distinguish his eyes in any way. Curled all models eyelashes with tongs …
and applied new mascara Diorshow Iconic Overcurl 090 Over Black, and only on the upper eyelashes: “It gives a more natural effect, just what was needed here “.
Another of the realities of modern times – each model was painted using her individual set of cosmetics: “We always have cleanliness on the backstage, who knows… (I confirm, cleanliness. YZ.) And now it is generally elevated to the absolute. The girls, by the way, also behaved a little differently. And I’m not even talking about keeping your distance now. Sometimes, for example, they could feverishly chew something on the backstage, sometimes a banana or a sandwich. This is normal: we still ran around the shows, always hungry. Now it was not«.
… And Peter decided to leave the lips of models almost intact. Dior Lip Maximizer in the shade of Pink, which he dimmed a little more with his finger before the girl took the stage.
But most of all I – and, apparently, not only me – was interested in how Peter Phillips would answer the question of the year: “What did you understand during the epidemic, self-isolation and all this?”
And he answered – so that I loved him even more: “Of course, I, like everyone else, sat and, like everyone else, thought about something and tried to comprehend something. In fact, he tried to better understand what we were doing and for whom. It just appeared for this time. So that’s what I understood. Firstly, no one wants some extraordinary, unthinkable products of incredible shades. Women just need good foundation, good mascara and good lipstick. Not wow foods, but wow quality regular foods. And no matter what the marketing departments say or come up with (I ask them to forgive me in advance, because most likely they will not like it), you need to concentrate on this. And secondly, we do not release anything that really cannot be lived without. But what we release can make life more enjoyable. Let’s get down to it. “
PS. The set – all of this delightful shining light for the show – was done by Italian artist Marinella Senatore. Colored lights formed the words: “We rise by lifting others” – “We rise by lifting others.” I’m thinking about it.
A complete list of the tools used in the images of the models at the show:
(Official start of sales on the European market in September 2020.)
Tone: Dior Backstage Face and Body Primer and Dior Backstage Face and Body Foundation followed by Dior Forever Skin Correct.
Lips: Lip Sugar Scrub 001, Dior Lip Maximizer в оттенке Pink.
Nails: Dior Vernis in 108 Muguet.
Photo: Vanni Bassetti.