fashion

From School: 10 Diploma Collections of Young Designers You Should See

It should be strange to be released in 2020 – they worked all year, and that’s how it all ended. Shows of diploma collections (a significant milestone in a student’s life, they often become decisive in a career) had to be canceled literally everywhere. But young designers do not lose heart and continue to create with burning eyes.

What is it like to graduate from fashion university during a pandemic

From London’s Central Saint Martins to Tokyo’s Bunka Fashion College, Vogue took a virtual tour of the world’s leading fashion universities, selected especially talented young talents and asked them what to expect from the fashion industry during this challenging time.

Yasmina Atta, 23, Nigeria

@yasmina___________

BA in Women’s Clothing Design at Central Saint Martins, London

How would you describe your collection?

It is called Kosmos in Blue, in the center of the plot is a hybrid character, the image is half invented, half based on African folklore. The real embodiment of surrealism is a combination of mysticism and futurism. I started with the work of Bethier Saar, an African-American artist who creates assemblies, and Senegalese filmmaker Djibril Diop-Mambeti. The collection uses many modern techniques and traditional materials.

What’s your favorite thing? And is there such a thing at all?

Motorized leather fenders. Many of my ideas have been embodied in them; in general, the thing is quite amusing. Some people are put into a stupor with wings – it is not clear what to do with them. This eccentricity is very important. You need to be interested in why this or that object is needed, where it came from – this correlates with my idea of ​​connecting the past with the future.

What do you expect from the world in the near future?

We have learned more about social injustice and institutional racism and are still trying to make sense of it. Numerous online discussions have finally begun to translate into real action, especially in the fashion industry.

Sohee Park, 24 years old, South Korea

@miss_sohee

Bachelor in Fashion Design and Marketing from Central Saint Martins, London

What is the story behind your collection?

This is the story of a girl who turns into a young woman, there are many parallels with my personal experience as a woman and an artist. Sitting at home on self-isolation, I sewed five couture dresses – bright prints, fluffy silhouettes, long embroidered trains and crinolines.

Do you have a favorite look?

Black slip dress with bolero in 3D flowers. It took more than one month to create the flowers – each petal is carefully worked out and is located exactly where it belongs. I decorated the bolero with sequins and crystals – when the model turns, it sparkles as if covered with raindrops.

What are you planning to do next?

I am working on several collaborations, it’s very exciting. And of course, I’m thinking of launching my own brand one day, I want to specialize in demi-couture.

Scarlet Young, 24, Hong Kong

@scarlettyang_

BA in Women’s Clothing Design at Central Saint Martins, London

Tell us what it’s like to graduate during a pandemic.

When it was announced that the college would be closed and the catwalk shows were canceled, I was very upset. Then they said that instead of the usual shows there will be virtual ones, and my mood changed. I enjoy working directly with technology – this is how I feel that I am involved in change for the better.

What was the driving force behind your creativity?

My main goal was to create a loop system in which things seem to grow naturally and then decompose just as naturally. I used several techniques: biodesign, digital design and 3D modeling – as a result, the products really develop on their own, systematically and organically.

How did you achieve this?

Most of my fabrics are made from various algae extracts and silkworm cocoon proteins (we get these from the waste of the main silk industry). The collection was created with the consideration of what happens to things when they wear out, so all materials are biodegradable and do not contain any chemicals or plastic.

5 coolest sustainable fabrics of the future

Annemarie Saric, 24, Austria

@grandmother

MA in Fashion at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts of Antwerp

Tell us about your collection?

I wanted it to have a gloss and shine, you know, like a new car. I considered things as some kind of complete forms, as if geometric, I created something simplified.

What’s your favorite look?

Latex cocoon dress. Its prototype was a heavily retouched ad for a Japanese car – I really like its hyper-realism.

What difficulties did you face while working on the collection during isolation?

Perhaps the most difficult thing was to figure out how, in the circumstances, to capture the collection and present it to the public. Fortunately, my friend, photographer Li Wei Sui, helped me to make an amazing video.

Julia Ballardt, 27 years old, Germany

@julballardt

MA in Fashion at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts of Antwerp

How does it feel to be released during a pandemic?

Perhaps some doors have closed, but instead so many new ones have opened. For me, now is the best time for new beginnings, the time to create something well thought out and original.

What was your inspiration for the collection?

Punk culture and the philosophical habit of “stringing” memories onto a specific thing. I experimented with different printing techniques and other techniques, using rubber coated buttons, for example.

Are there favorites among things?

I had a giant carpet in my studio that looked like a tapestry, which I got as a gift from a friend. So, I was looking for new interesting fabrics (during the isolation, the search went hard), and it seemed to me that the carpet had waited in the wings – I made a coat out of it.

Itsuki Ogu, 23, and Mana Sudou, 21, Japan

@sikkim.m

Bachelors in Fashion at Tokyo Bunka Fashion College

Why did you decide to work in pairs? And what did you particularly like about that?

It so happened that the entire final year we worked on projects together. There are many large-scale silhouettes in the graduation collection, you could help each other, it was more convenient – the speed of work increased, and besides, making new discoveries together is much more fun. Well, it was very pleasant to share the feeling that the job was done.

What is your collection about?

The name of the project is Addled Plant. We were inspired by the idea of ​​the life of a flower – a living creature that can grow and develop in any climate. We took an illustrated book about plants, chose the most interesting silhouettes in it and created six outfits based on them.

How do you see the future?

The era of individualism has passed, and today, to move forward, you need to work together. We worked on our collection like a real team, during all these strict coronavirus restrictions and were able to form a clear idea of ​​what cooperation is.

Yusuke Sadohara, 21, Japan

@yusukesadohara

Bachelor in Fashion at Tokyo Bunka Fashion College

Tell us about your collection?

The idea was born out of the game Fortnite Prop Hunt, where the player’s task is to create clothes that would mimic the surrounding objects. There, for example, there is a convertible jacket with a giant pocket on the back, folding details on the left shoulder indicate that it can be turned into a bag.

The past few months have been challenging. How did you manage to cope with everything?

It is very important to think positively, keep in touch with others, and monitor the state of your psyche. When you are busy with something, you forget about loneliness. Having a goal plus online communication with friends helped me a lot.

What do you expect from fashion in the future?

This time of reflection opened up new ways of presentation for us. It pushed people to think differently, to become more conscious.

Paradise Langlois, 22 years old, USA

@raimundolanglois

Bachelor in Fashion at New York’s Parsons School of Design

Tell us about your collection?

The collection is called Afternoon Delight, it is entirely dedicated to the freedom, physicality and sensuality of clothing. I was interested in the characteristic features of American youth culture, markers of sexuality; I wanted to present a fresh look at all these concepts that are so close and understandable to all of us.

Do you have a favorite look?

Yes, a pair of old jeans and a matching jacket. This kit best reflects my design philosophy, and also perfectly emphasizes the figure regardless of gender. These pieces have elements of American sports classics that make them dear to everyone.

What are you planning to do next?

Life after graduation is unpredictable. I think it’s important for young designers not to get attached to one particular path.

Gregory Assad, 21, Martinique

@gregoryassad

Bachelor in Women’s Clothing Design at the Paris Institut Français de la Mode

What was the inspiration for the collection?

My love for draperies and my desire to formulate the idea of ​​a new glamor with a mix of different silhouettes and without any gender boundaries. The aesthetics are partly inspired by the work of Malian photographer Malik Sibide and American abstract sculptor John Chamberlain.

What’s your favorite item in the collection and why?

Long coat in wool and Madras silk, tapered to the bottom. This is a very personal and iconic thing for me, because I am from the island of Martinique. Madras is the kind of cotton fabric from which traditional dresses are sewn in Martinique, they are here called la grande robe.

What will you do next?

My next step will be a master’s degree at IFM in Women’s Fashion Design. And after that I really hope to participate in the LVMH competition or in the International Festival of Fashion and Photography in Hyères.

Claire Barrot, 21, France

@c_claire_ou_pas

Bachelor in Women’s Clothing Design at the Paris Institut Français de la Mode

Tell us about your collection?

I was inspired by the favelas in Rio de Janeiro with their sparkling flowers along the gray streets. I sewed new things from old ones, from scraps of fabric and various non-obvious household items – for example, I used bicycle cameras, cables and rubber.

What difficulties did you face while working on the collection?

I had to think innovatively and look for solutions using what was at hand.

What do you expect from the future of the fashion industry?

Consumer habits have to evolve, people will start buying clothes more consciously. Personally, I would like designers to be guided by their personal views, not trends, when creating collections.

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