Suddenly the aroma of fried potatoes, provoking active salivation, burst through the window and hung steadily in the air of the kitchen. And not just potatoes, but with mushrooms. With whites, with just picked in a nearby pine forest. Just like we did yesterday, but there was something of his own, special in him.
– By the way, about mushrooms: do you want to make us mushroom caviar or julienne? – My husband asked me, happily eating the leftover potatoes fried with onions and freshly dried porcini mushrooms, previously soaked in milk. – You somehow made delicious caviar out of them. Or was it Natalya Mikhailovna who did it?
– But, indeed, during the war, and after it, my mother made wonderful mushroom caviar, – I remembered.
Then the mushrooms on the market were sold in threads, 60-70 centimeters. At the same time, the thread began with the smallest, strongest, whole fungus, and ended with a large dark hat with a white-grayish “cap”, as I called it in deep childhood, and a wide white leg.
A string of mushrooms then cost about as much as a kilogram of meat – 2 rubles. 50 kopecks or 3 rubles, but it was enough for 3-4 soups or for two soups and one second. During the years of my war and post-war childhood, they cooked economically.
My husband was of the Black Sea-Makaryevsky, he knew about mushrooms well, he knew everything, even rare ones, but he collected only white, boletus and milk mushrooms. He collected them masterfully: I had the impression that he saw them underground. But my sister, who lives with us, had to clean them. Salted, pickled and cooked different juliennes, soups, casseroles and various stuffed main courses from them exclusively by me. Once I even made jam from small porcini fungi. It also turned out original.
I have always loved experimenting with food: it’s boring to cook everyday food strictly according to the recipe. Last summer there were a lot of mushrooms, and I sometimes allowed myself to get carried away with them “to the detriment of meat.”
– Well, what about the caviar? My husband interrupted my memories.
– You will have caviar! I promise!
My husband went to the city, to the archive, where the documents ordered the day before were awaiting him, and I decided to fulfill my promise. Mom did not have time to leave the recipe for us, and I began to do everything “by eye”.
I had 70-80 grams of fresh fragrant dried porcini mushrooms. I didn’t cast them and took everything.
Having previously broken them into pieces, I soaked the mushrooms in warm water from an artesian well (our dacha is more than 70 meters deep). While they were soaking in moisture, I peeled and chopped finely and lightly toasted three medium-sized onions.
When the mushrooms have gained moisture, I poured out the water, poured it fresh and put it on low heat. I brought it to a boil and thought: my mother seemed to have drained the water after the first boil (25-30 minutes), but what she was doing with her – I could not remember.
She remembered that for the second boil she poured a little water. And I, bringing the water with mushrooms to a boil, kept them on low heat for 25 minutes.
Why these two boils? Everything is very simple: white mushrooms grow near amanitas, and since all the mushrooms growing on the ground, moisture and food are taken from the soil, my Makaryevsky mushroom pickers (husband and mother) believed that they must be disinfected by boiling. They were firmly convinced that all mushrooms are forest orderlies, which means that they can pick up and not process something that is not entirely edible.
By this time, my fragrant mushrooms became softer and already cooled down, I threw them in a colander. I poured out the first water without hesitation, and the second, after 15 minutes of boiling (with a small addition of salt, it was so fragrant!), I poured it into a bottle and, when it cooled down, sent it to the freezer (neither soup, nor mushroom noodles for now I didn’t want to cook).
Now the mushrooms had to be finely crushed in a combine. I laid out four tablespoons of mushrooms, on them fried onions with the addition of natural vegetable (better – corn or sunflower, Krasnodar or Rostov) oil. I added a little salt and crushed it, changing the modes.
When the mushrooms were ready (if the consistency seemed a little dry to you, add a little mushroom broth that you poured into the bottle: you have not yet had time to send it to the freezer, because it is not completely cold), I divided them into two portions.
I added a little butter and finely chopped herbs (dill, parsley, green basil) to the portion that I left for breakfast. I tried it. Tasty!
She put the other half of the caviar in a glass jar (low and wide, for 0.25 liters) and poisoned this semi-finished product in the coldest part of the refrigerator.
The caviar is over. But what to make of the original mushroom broth? Then I did not come up with anything new and after a couple of days I cooked chicken soup in mushroom broth.
Years passed. Mom is gone for a long time. Her husband is gone. I periodically make mushroom caviar and still cook soup in mushroom water, boil rice, pour buckwheat into porridge, make mushroom sauce …
Somehow we wanted pancakes, but not ordinary, but some … Well, you understand me ?!
It is known that the most delicious and thinnest pancakes can be baked in water. What if you use mushroom broth instead of water? Indeed, why not!
Invented – you have to try. I had a decoction of 0.5 liters. Beat three eggs with a mixer. I added mushroom broth to them, a tablespoon of sunflower oil (I do not intuitively trust olive oil), slightly salt and, stirring with a mixer whisk, added flour, sifting through a special sieve mug. The consistency of thick kefir or liquid sour cream. Brown color.
She baked as usual: she poured the dough into a preheated pancake maker and put it on medium heat.
The pancakes turned out to be tastier than I expected. These can be served on the table for both the first course and the second (if they correspond). Or you can (with or without filling), sprinkle with herbs and prepare a rosette of sour cream or creamy sauce, serve as an independent dish. You can stuff them with anything: fried potatoes with onions, stewed vegetables, minced chicken, mushroom pilaf, cabbage baked with an egg …
And delicious. And not very expensive, especially when you pick and dry the mushrooms yourself. And calories can be regulated due to the filling. And in a lax post you can.
This is how an interesting recipe for pancakes was born, which my family called “galaychiki”.
They can also be cut into narrow strips and dried in the oven. You will get a good mushroom noodles for a soup or a second course, which in this case you don’t need to cook anymore: they added it to a plate with broth and – bon appetit!
Source : shkolazhizni.ru