Having landed his first ever role in a feature film (“The Dead Don’t Die” by Jim Jarmusch) and in the second season of “Grown Up”, in 2019 Luka Sabbat pushed his fame as an influencer, which, by the way, is skeptical, to the background. In addition to acting, Sabbat is interested in art: recently he had a favorite work – Richard Prince’s New England Nurse, he saw in the recently reopened The Rubbel Museum in Miami. Sabbat is eager to see the furniture designed by his friend Virgil Abloh at the Carpenters Workshop Gallery’s launch during Miami Design Week. The names of Prince and Abloh clearly hint at what Sabbat plans to do in the near future.
Vogue editors met with 22-year-old Luca during the recent Art Basel Miami. His eyelids still showed yesterday’s makeup from the Dior Men pre-fall 2020 show: the metallic Sabbata shadows were picked up by Peter Philips himself – to complement his gray wool suit with silk inserts, invented, of course, by Kim Jones. “I wanted to look manly, but at the same time dazzling and sexy – isn’t that why people love makeup? – says the Sabbat. – Makeup artists made me the effect of bruises under the eyes, it turned out gorgeous. I don’t like lip and cheekbone makeup: the eyes are enough, they are the most expressive part of the face. “
What are you working on now?
Above the exhibition (it will open in February as part of the Frieze exhibition in Los Angeles. – Ed.) In its room at the Chateau Marmont. I lived there for three years and have been trying to give these memories a physical form for the whole last one. I use different materials: from glass to paint. Then I invite some people to evaluate the result.
Chateau Marmont is a very remarkable place for Los Angeles. Why did you decide to live there?
Once a client booked me a room there, and then I thought it was the coolest hotel I have been to! I swore that I would not stop anywhere else in Los Angeles, and so it happened. When I moved to City of Angels due to the filming of Grown Up, I decided that I would live there until I found something else, but it never happened. The houses here are very isolated and lonely, and I’m from New York, I need a sense of community. The people at Chateau Marmont are like family to me: they are all my friends.
You are often referred to as an influencer. How do you like this word?
Hell, I don’t like it at all. I was dubbed that in an article by The New York Times when I was 18 years old. Initially, the meaning of this word may have been positive, but if you ask most so-called influencers what exactly they do, there is no answer. I do a lot to really somehow influence society: from acting to collaborating with close friends in fashion houses and relaunching my creative studio, Hot Mess. It is difficult to separate a true influencer from those who are doing something there, while having a lot of subscribers. But there are people who have much more subscribers than me.
Still, two million subscribers is pretty good. What attracts people to your posts so much?
Subscribers came to my page themselves, never wanted to bother with it. A friend created a profile for me in high school, and then I thought, “I can probably share my thoughts and post clothes.” It took about four to five years to come to what I have now. I was just your average guy who went to school on the Lower East Side and interned at VFiles. It’s easy with me, I’m a normal person.
You are the owner of an enviable collection of archival clothing. Who are your favorite designers and what do you think of their work?
I just purchased one of the original 1974 Vivienne Westwood apron tops and a pair of Raf Simons’ 2004 oversized pants. I really like the work of Westwood during the period when she worked with Malcolm McLaren (former young man Vivienne Westwood. – Ed.). Their joint creations of that time are associated with a particular era in music – McLaren was then the manager of the Sex Pistols and came up with images for them. Often these were typical DIY items such as pillowcase tops. Nobody dressed like that then. Kim Jones also has a crazy archive of such rebellious things.
Kim holds his shows in places where there is a lot of energy, it is understandable why he chose Miami with its palm trees and Shawn Stussy’s surfer theme. I love how Kim brings casual streetwear and high fashion into one. After all, these two phenomena are derivatives of each other. High fashion always presents itself in a snobbish way, as if it is better than the streets, but steals their cuts and prints, and the streets ridicule it. Now you look at a 40-year-old rich man in a Stüssy panama hat and Jordans sneakers and you think: “Wait, didn’t you wear a Brioni and Loro Piana two years ago?” It’s so cool to be involved in this story. I can easily imagine how, in a few years, things created now will be viewed as archival and will remember how street and high fashion became one.
Your own style leaves a lasting impression. What are the common mistakes people make when it comes to clothing?
If my favorite brand comes out with some weird “bullshit”, I won’t wear it. Also, I won’t wear what I’m uncomfortable wearing. My style is the result of my observations: trips to Japan and finds such as the Soloist brand, music, films, a cool outfit in which an actor was photographed at the airport a few years ago – I, however, will never copy it completely. When there are all these influencers, Instagram, and when you can buy a whole image in one click, copying is too easy. Remember the moment we first saw the Triple S sneakers? It was an unreal pair of shoes, but its popularity was inflated to incredible proportions. I have a bond with all my clothes. Too many people mindlessly buy whatever is “cool” right now.
Source : www.vogue.ru