Peeling: what is it?
“The peel is a chemical scrub ”, explains Laura Bonnot, innovation manager for the cosmetics brand Laboté and a pharmacist by training. “But you shouldn’t be afraid of the word chemical, because it is a natural action”, she adds. It’s this chemical action which differentiates the peel from the scrub. The latter has a mechanical action, “These are the grains that rub with the skin that will help you get rid of dead cells”. Getting rid of dead cells: this is the primary objective of mechanical scrub and peeling (chemical scrub). “The two products have the same vocation: to allow you to have a new skin to have a smooth and luminous complexion”.
The different kinds of peels
But beware, there are several types de peelings. The first that comes to mind is the one performed by a dermatologist. “It is a very concentrated and very powerful treatment, which must absolutely be supervised by a professional”, recalls Laura Bonnot. Another peel? The so-called cosmetic peel, which each person can do at home using a specific treatment “Much less concentrated”.
How do they work? “Acids from flowers or fruits (also called glycolic acid) will promote the desquamation, and thus the evacuation of dead skin ”, explains the expert. Some peels are also composed ofsalicylic acid, very useful for skin with imperfections.
Some peels do not use acids, but enzymes : they are also called enzymatic scrubs. “Enzymes, often derived from papaya or pineapple also have a chemical action, but unlike acids, they do not promote desquamation: they “eat” dead skin ”.
Peeling: at what age to start?
Peels would only be intended for mature skin. This received idea is not totally true. “The powerful peels performed by the dermatologist are aggressive and aim to eliminate fine lines and wrinkles”, begins Laura Bonnot. “That is why it is advisable to do it only from the age of 35”.
On the other hand, cosmetic peels are perfect for all ages from 18 years old because they are not aggressive. “They will stimulate the cell renewal, remove excess sebum and erase them small fine lines”.
Peeling: how many times a week to do it?
It all depends on your skin type. Indeed, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to do a peel once a month. “This will help cell renewal, which takes place every 28 days”, explains Laura Bonnot. If your skin is thicker, you can do this once a week.
Also know that it should preferably be done in the evening. Why ? Because certain acids (glycolic in particular), can make the skin very sensitive to the sun. Indeed, the peel removes in a way the first layer of the skin to promote regeneration. “So do the peel in the evening, then apply a night cream to nourish and comfort the skin ”.
Peeling: what are the risks for the skin?
The dermatologist’s peel may have a affect the skin. “Very concentrated, it can burn the skin if it is poorly done and poorly supervised, because it removes the surface layer of it”, warns Laura Bonnot. On the other hand, peels to be done at home do not present “Really no risk”. Are you going to try?
Thanks to Laura Bonnot, innovation manager of the cosmetics brand Laboté, for her advice.