Prada was one of the highlights of the first day of Milan’s digital Fashion Week. In this phase of crisis linked to the Covid-19 pandemic, artistic director Miuccia Prada has focused more than ever on the identity of the brand offering a wardrobe of great beauty made up of timeless essentials of impeccable simplicity. Dominated by a black, white and gray palette, the collection passed under the filter of five different looks turns out to be multiple and diverse, and ultimately much more sophisticated than it appears.
Miuccia Prada revisits her great classics for next summer – Prada
To unveil her men’s and women’s spring-summer 2021 collection, the designer, who signs here her latest solo collection for Prada, has called on five renowned photographers, artists and directors: Terence Nance, Joanna Piotrowska, Martine Syms, Juergen Teller and Willy Vanderperre. In this five-part film, titled “Prada multiple views SS21, the show that never happened“, they each capture an aspect of the wardrobe, in a different place of the Prada Foundation in Milan, through as many distinct chapters, as if reflecting the multiple looks and interpretations of each spectator.
Raf Simons, who joined the house recently, did not intervene on this collection. Her first co-signed work with Miuccia Prada will be unveiled in September. However, the first chapter is signed by Willy Vanderperre, the Belgian designer’s favorite photographer, who chooses a distanced point of view.
He films a group of models in white shirts and dark suits in a distant blur. Focusing takes place intermittently. Only an ivory coat model with floral micro-decorations appears in color in this black and white film.
The flannel suits are cut close to the body with ultra-slim pants. The classic men’s wardrobe coat comes with three buttons. Women wear flared strapless dresses over leggings and slingback pumps or ballerinas, which give them an air of dancers. Extreme classic meets the future through elasticized fabrics and innovative nylon materials. The zips used in some suits, shirts or sweaters add an urban spirit.
A feminine look shot for Prada by the German photographer – Juergen Teller
In the second act, the German photographer Juergen Teller leads the viewer into the basements of the building. The models come to life, suddenly with clarity, between the tubes of the boiler room and other technical installations, giving an industrial touch to the whole.
We discover a series of nylon clothes and accessories: suits, windbreakers, pants, dresses, tailored jackets with short and wide sleeves, flared skirts, including a black one edged with white lace. But also fleece pieces, like these white sweatpants worn over a shirt of immaculate candor with a black tie, or this jacket-sweater.
Polish artist Joanna Piotrowska, who usually works on human relations through the image, brings the camera (and eye) closer to the garment with close-ups of details. A pocket, a slit in the back of a jacket, the buttons of a leather wrap skirt …
The Prada collection takes on color under the lens of the American artist – Martine Syms
In this third chapter filmed in black and white, the models move to the rhythm of finger snaps in a strange choreography, sometimes lying on the carpet or disappearing behind a thick velvet curtain. A skirt is tightened at the waist with a tied ribbon belt, a zip runs through a nylon dress.
You have to wait for the fourth part to be projected in a bath of saturated colors. But is it the clothes or the colored filters chosen by video artist Martine Syms? The models follow one another and crisscross between the armchairs of the Foundation’s small cinema room, in a visual chaos in the form of a collage of images by interposed screens. We discover sixties suits with the graphic simplicity dear to Miuccia Prada, and superb little knitwear and cardigans. Some pastel tones invite themselves into the wardrobe.
Finally, the last chapter, filmed by American director Terence Nance, reveals the sportier part of the collection linked to the Linea Rossa line, in the form of an imaginary competition taking place in the courtyard of the Foundation. Jersey sets (knitwear and long leggings) alternate with very sporty outfits of tops and micro-shorts, polo shirts, shirts and windbreakers.
The sporty silhouettes of the Luna Rossa line are directed by the American director – Terence Nance
“The project also reflects the reality of this digital presentation of Prada: an apparently divergent reality but seen by many, this time in its own atmosphere, its own time, its own world. It represents an embrace and a celebration of this multiplicity – when people cannot enter into communion with each other, we can create a different way of being in community, united by ideas, objectives and convictions – “, sums up the house in its note of intent.