Serenity and Orchids: The Best Perfume This Fall

Text: Ksenia Golovanova, author of the telegram channel Nose Republic

Autumn perfume premieres This year is slightly less than last year: the industry has not yet managed to pick up the previous momentum after a difficult summer. But among what came out there are some very good ones – and we chose the best.

The news, albeit inevitable, about the launch of Libre Intense, the first, “even more daring and sensual” flanker of last year’s Libre, alerted us: the original already speaks in raised tones, screwing it up to the intense version is like screwing a speaker to a bottle. It turned out that they did not mean the volume, but the register. Pronouncing the words known from the first scent – orange blossom, lavender, vanilla, musk – in a deep chest voice, the new Libre takes the bright and sweet flowers of the original into golden jazz warmth, beautifully smoked by austere and bitter vetiver. A good example of a flanker who turned out to be more interesting than his ancestor.

Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée


Chanel, in contrast to Yves Saint Laurent, on the contrary, played for a decrease – they released L’Eau Privée, a more delicate and intimate version of the classic Coco Mademoiselle, which is offered to be applied not only to the skin, but also to the hair and bed linen. In a commercial for Private Water, actress Keira Knightley hangs a Do Not Disturb sign on the door and plays chess with herself – a great metaphor for the spirits we use primarily for our own pleasure, not for the sake of others. On the other hand, those around you, especially the open space neighbors, will thank you: the only thing in which the more powdery and fruity, less patchouli L’Eau Privée is inferior to the original Coco Mademoiselle is volume and pressure, and this is wonderful.

RUB 7,000

for 30 ml, Lush stores

The perfume from the so-called Florentine collection Lush, which we wrote about last fall, has finally arrived in Russia. All of them are collected by Emma Dikaya, the new perfumer of the brand, but the style of the brand – rough, sweeping, bold – can be read from afar. Except for Sappho: this is the most silky and elegant composition in the line, “lined” with aldehydes iris (a lot of high-quality iris) in a cloud of sweet tobacco. There is in it something from the former Guerlain perfumery – the same old-fashioned generosity with which the perfumer measures the formula of flower beauty, the same golden tint of vanilla in the base, the same feeling of a special perfume, on the way out. However, such a stately iris will make any circumstances a little more solemn.

No. 4 Betel

Photogenics + Co

Los Angeles-based Photogenics + Co, a recent addition to the Rive Gauche perfume family, makes good roll-on perfumes that are no less sonorous and sillage than other sprays. There are seven compositions in the line (they are also used in candles and diffusers), all smell woody-herbaceous, a bit like oil mixtures for massage in spas, all are named after medicinal plants with psychoactive properties. At the same time, the effect of the spirits is rather “psycho-passive”, sedative: No. 6 Hyssop scent with mint tea and evening lavender, No. 5 Pavot – sandalwood smoke and myrrh, and No. 4 Betel, the most unusual of the seven, with hyacinth and evening bonfire.

Perfumery is an art that, unlike the rest, is only learning to solve not only artistic, but also social problems. This year, largely due to the pandemic, the situation has improved markedly: some perfume brands switched to the production of sanisizers and donated them to hospitals, others took their stock of soap and other cleaning products to nursing homes, and others donated money to foundations and those who suffered due to the coronavirus. The new Russian brand Pure Sense is also doing a good job, whose perfumes – so far there are three fragrances in the line – are created by blind authors who receive part of the proceeds from sales. Serenity (“Peace”) by Alexander Yashin, as conceived by the authors, smells like autumn twilight, in fact – apples with cinnamon, honey milk, marzipan dust at the bottom of an elegant pie box and something that remotely resembles the most popular scented candle from IKEA , – warm, cozy, tender. If you’re not looking for peace this fall, Pure Sense has something else – “Freedom” and “Inspiration”.

Black Orchid Parfum

Tom Ford

Even the most successful perfume franchise like Black Orchid needs to be reminded of itself from time to time. There are about three ways to do this in 2020: the first is to change the scent into a new, even richer and more flashy bottle, the second is to increase its concentration to a conditional 146%, and the third is to equip with an environmental agenda (refills, organic alcohol, packaging features, etc.) .). The last option is not from Ford’s arsenal, so you have to work with the first two: the new Black Orchid is clad in eye-catching gold and this, of course, perfume, “the most powerful version of the Black Orchid in existence.” However, the version is good and complex: sultry ylang-ylang mixed with rum baba, a viscous fruit sweetness with a caramel crust.

Love Osmanthus

Atelier Cologne

Autumn is the season of osmanthus, a shrub with small orange flowers that covers Asian cities with its fruity, apricot-tea spirit from September to October. There are not so many scents with osmanthus, despite the obvious perfume potential of the latter, and the mass market and the middle echelon still prefer other, more familiar flowers to it. It is all the more valuable that the new fragrance on this topic was made not by a small niche brand, but by the popular, well represented, including in Russia, brand – Atelier Cologne, which has filled its hand on light and resonant perfumes. Love Osmanthus also turned out to be sonorous, transparent and sweet as candy, cologne with the scent of fruit tea: leather and animal shades characteristic of the title material were removed, and its natural citrusiness, on the contrary, was highlighted with lemon.

Musk Panache

Rebatchi House

Maison Rebatchi is a Parisian brand with Algerian roots, which was recently brought to Russia, strongly loved by the perfume press, and Musc Panache is a swanky chic musky feather bed, whipped up by perfumer Maurice Rousel in the most decadent palace fashion. If you love the smell of musks and interact with it almost on a physical, tangible level – you wrap yourself in it in the fall and think of it as something “enveloping” and “soft”, then Musc Panache is pure, light fluffy, slightly tinted with green feathers herbs and vetiver – you’ll love it.

Kumquat, the protagonist of Pur Kinkan, is the perfect perfumery citrus – sweet, but with an interesting bitterness, juicy and tart at the same time. There is a great dessert potential in it, the promise of all kinds of fragrant jams and jellies hanging in the air, which is why perfumers love to “candied” it in their perfumes. But not here: in the hands of Matilda Laurent, skillfully manipulating sweetness, bitterness and acidity, kumquats turn into light balls for juggling.

PHOTOS: Lush UK, Sephora

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