Brillances, comédons, acne… The Oily skin can cause skin problems which are often the source of complexes. Result: People who think they have this type of skin use unsuitable products, which aggravate the problem. “We must stop believing that oily skin needs to be stripped”, explains Pernelle Hourcade, Training and Education Manager at Codage. Why banish this received idea ? Because using care that is too aggressive risks exacerbating the problem. “Seven out of ten clients I see think they have oily skin”, begins the expert, “But in reality it is not and it is by using strippers that they made it oily”. Indeed, the skin of this type of people is actually often combination, that is to say that it is “grasse” on the T zone (forehead, nose, chin), and “dried” on the rest of the face. “This wrong diagnosis may therefore worsen the situation, which is why I recommend consulting a professional ”.
But why aggressive care has the opposite effect and can make the skin oily ? Simply because they dry out the skin, they strip it. The hydrolipidic film, composed of water and lipids which protects the skin, is refined and weakened. So, to defend itself, the skin goes create more fat, i.e. sebum. “It’s a vicious circle in which you must not fall ”, constate Pernelle Hourcade.
Oily skin: which ideal beauty routine to adopt?
Exit too aggressive scrubs and drying care, it is necessary pamper oily skin. And it begins from evening make-up removal. People with oily skin often think that micellar water is the best way to remove make-up. But oil is a very nice option. “The oil clings to the oil, which means that the oil will capture the particles of make-up, the dust accumulated during the day, but also the excess sebum”. In addition, theoil is a very gentle solution to remove makeup, because it does not require cotton, which can irritate the skin. Once properly cleansed, the expert advises to do a other cleaning with a mild product (also called the double cleaning technique), then apply something to moisturize the skin.
“Hydration is the basis of any beauty routine”. Why ? “If the skin is not hydrated, the “water / oil” balance of the hydrolipidic film is damaged ”. Consequence: the skin is dehydrated and it will manufacture fat in an attempt to strengthen the skin barrier that protects it. This is also why thinking that oily skin does not need moisturizer is a mistake. “Of course, you’re not going to use too rich skincare, but you can go for lighter textures”. Another tip: apply care in “zoning”, that is, depending on the area of the face. “So if your T-zone is glowing, an anti-blemish serum can be applied, and another moisturizing serum can be put on as your cheeks”. Then put your cream on your entire face. That’s it !
Thanks to Pernelle Hourcade, Training and Education Manager at Codage for her advice.
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