Fashion houses have always been close to the hobbies of the European nobility (read: their main clients). Some brands like Hermès and Lacoste just came to be. In the first case, the French had an urgent need for horse-drawn carriages of excellent quality. In the second, the need to look good even while playing tennis.
In the fall / winter 2021 season, “bourgeois” hobbies have become a trend. Ski equipment appeared in the collections of Chanel, Fendi, Givenchy and Miu Miu.
Only Chanel can be blamed for this, and even then at a stretch. The creative director of the fashion house, Virginie Viard, was really inspired by the atmosphere of the Alpine ski resorts and the collections of Karl Lagerfeld in the 1970s. For Miuccia Prada, the starting point for the creation of the Miu Miu collection was the memory of her skiing in a swimsuit. “At first it looks strange, but in the end there is nothing strange about it,” the designer jokes. From this memory, the collection combines lingerie and ski equipment. Other designers attributed the citation of the après ski aesthetic to how much they miss their winter holidays.
Passion for bourgeois style on the catwalk appears not for the first time. It’s just that before, designers looked at the everyday wardrobe of modern aristocrats. This is what Hedi Slimane did, for example, when he came to Celine in 2018. Now fashion is looking around and noticing how good ski suits can look in a regular coffee shop. And nothing that weird. “If a coat of a certain shade of brown indicates that you have money, then clothes will now allow you to tell the world how you spend it,” writes Seward.
Chanel recreated an alpine village in Paris’ Grand Palais in 2019, Miu Miu filmed their Fall / Winter 2021 collection right in the Italian Dolomites. They made ski suits not only expensive but also beautiful. Now I want to wear them not only in the mountains, which is quite consistent with the trend for outdoor. He was born thanks to quarantine: except for nature, there was nowhere to leave the house.
Harness, riding boots and jockey caps were offered by Alessandro Michele in the Gucci Aria collection, dedicated to the 100th anniversary of the fashion house. In 1921, Guccio Gucci began to create horse-drawn carriages from leather. Alessandro paid tribute to him by “transforming the equestrian world of Gucci into a fetish cosmogony.”
Fashion is becoming more democratic. And although the price tags of the brands mentioned above are hard to call affordable (like ski passes in Courchevel), inclusiveness works in at least one direction. Now wealthy people can afford fashionable ski and equestrian equipment. And everyone else will enjoy copies from Zara.
See also: Skiing clothing is in fashion. Yes, at the very beginning of autumn.