tribute to the excentrisme of Lagerfeld

Chanel was in the mood for partying. The house of the rue Cambon we book a Haute Couture collection fall-winter 2020-2021 tribute to the years Palace the vibrant Karl Lagerfeld.

Has the era of the health crisis, the presentations of the collections rely on the seventh item of Chanel is no exception. It is no longer under the nave is usual, but well on its website that the house at double C we invites you to discover its collection Haute Couture fall-winter of 2020-2021, starting with a teaser merry signed by the fashion journalist Loïc Prigent, where the workshops of the 31 rue Cambon operate the “final touches” in an atmosphere punctuated by bursts of laughter.

At the twelfth stroke of noon, the house goes to things serious. On its website and its social networks, Chanel is lifting the veil on the entirety of its presentation digital : a photo series and a short film by the artist Mikael Jansson. Minimalist, the images put the scene on a white background, attitudes, powerful, a bit cheeky dummies. A design that fits like a glove in this collection. “I had in mind of princesses eccentric, the kind of women that of Karl Lagerfeld loved to accompany in the evenings or at the Palace.” tells Virginie Viard. From the side, the simplicity of the silhouettes to the Gabrielle, this season, it’s the Kaiser, the artistic director reports directly tribute.

Naturally, the result is spectacular. All of the famous art crafts in the house have been asked to decorate thoroughly the pieces of this collection festive. Volumes audacious, sleeves such as dresses with accents great century, do not have cold in the eyes. Each silhouette asserts bias on the part of singular, as a dress with baskets or a tweed jacket asymmetrical. The work in this area is particularly impressive and the embroidery and tricotages virtuosos that adorn it manage to give him this look rock if lagerfelienne. Very present, the jewelry of magnificent of Chanel fine Jewelry completed the eccentricity of the silhouettes. We dream to attend the feast.

July 2019 : the first steps of Virginie Viard Chanel

After a parade Cruise widely appreciated, Virginie Viard has embarked alone on stage on 2 July 2019. During the parade Chanel haute couture fall-winter 2019-2020 at the Grand Palais, the artistic director book an interpretation very faithful to the couture of Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel. Small tweed jackets adorned with buttons of precious dresses chaste and chignon strict, the woman Chanel walking in the footsteps of star designer, sobriety and more. Wander among the books of a library reconstituted, probably still a nod to the collector of books that he was, she makes a last tribute to the creator.

Without a doubt, the claw, the most famous in the entire world, Chanel – whose logo is recognizable at first glance thanks to these two “C” intertwined – it is no less a French house that has seen the light of day very discrete in 1910. Gabrielle Chanel was born August 19, 1883 in Saumur. Of his early childhood, it keeps little trace. His mother turns off after a tb so that the little girl was only 12 years old. Abandoned by her father, she was placed in the orphanage of Aubazine. Gabrielle Chanel is on for 9 years the lab coat and black outfit that will inspire one of his most famous creations.
At age 20, the young Gabrielle decides to try his luck in the city and became “Coco”, singer of “cafes-concerts” in Vichy. There, she met her first protector : Etienne Balsan. Seduced, the young officer introduces him to the worldly life and finances its first creations. It is also through Balsan that Gabrielle meets the love of his life : Boy Capel.

The first Chanel boutique rue Cambon in Paris © Hdj – Sipa

In 1910, Gabrielle “Coco” from his stage name – realizes his dream and becomes a modiste. After working in the apartment parisian Etienne Balsan, she opened her first boutique at 21 rue Cambon : “Chanel Modes”. Therefore, the house of Chanel continues to grow. In 1913, the designer opens a boutique of hats and accessories in Deauville and in 1915, his house of couture in Biarritz.
In full ascension, Coco knows, however, a tragedy : in 1919, her love Boy Capel dies in a road accident.
Two years later, Mademoiselle gives birth to the most iconic of its creations. The N°5, the first perfume composed of the market, is a hit since its launch. A myth is born.

Diane Kruger little black dress Chanel 2008 version © Nebinger Taamallah – Abaca

For the young milliner, 1926 is a good year that saw the birth of many of the outfits emblematic of the house.
Gabrielle Chanel imposes the “little black dress”. In total contradiction with the fashion of the time, she seduces by her simplicity. First conquered : the critics of the american magazine Vogue, who see in it “the uniform of the modern woman”. The little black dress is named “the Ford of Chanel”, a reference to the flagship american auto.
It is also in 1926 that Chanel introduced in its collections, the waterproof and the jacket with golden buttons. Little by little, the codes of the house are being put in place.

Tailor tweed Chanel version 2004 revisited by Karl Lagerfeld © Java – Abaca

If Chanel is the subject of all the convoîtises since its debut, it is above all because she knows how to draw of his time and of his meetings to create a style revolutionary. Already in the 1920s, her affair with the Duke Dimitiri Pavlovich is the opportunity to integrate the Russian fashion in its collections. Of his love with the Duke of Westminster and their travels in Scotland born, in 1928, the idea of his first tailors tweed.
Success does not wait. In 1929, Mademoiselle joined a boutique of accessories to her house of couture. The total look Chanel is born. It is exported to the United States, and from the beginning of the ‘ 30s, Coco becomes the advisor to stars like Greta Garbo or Marlene Dietrich.

Necklace, Gabrielle Chanel of the haute joaillerie collection “Coco before Chanel” in 2017 © Chanel

Always coquette, Mademoiselle went nowhere without her pearls, and had a very strong taste for jewelry. In 1924, she opened her workshop in costume jewelry. As usual, the designer knows how to surround himself : Etienne de Beaumont and the duke Fulco de Verdura contribute to the development of the jewelry of the home.
But in 1932, Gabrielle Chanel became again the chronic. At the request of the international Guild of Diamond, Coco creates “Jewelry Diamond” his first collection of Haute Joaillerie. Has the honor, the diamonds are mounted on platinum, an extravagance that only Coco can afford to be in the doldrums economically.

Coco Chanel in the late 30 © UPPA Photoshot – Abaca

In the 30 years, the creative cinquantenaire is at the peak of his glory. His results speak for themselves : in 20 years of career, Chanel has managed to impose the marinière, the jersey, the pants, the costume jewelry, the tweed, the little black dress… It is also the first fashion designer to have given birth to a perfume and a line of beauty products.
In 1935, it employs about 4 000 workers, has 5 buildings on the rue Cambon, and sells nearly 28 000 models per year.
But the advent of the Second World War marked the decline of the house. In 1939, Chanel must close its doors. In 1944, after a stay in the province, Mademoiselle went into exile in Switzerland.

Bottle of the famous perfume Chanel N°5 © Apaydin Alain – Abaca

The War and the exile did not put an end to the activities of Chanel : the accessories shop remains open and the arrival of the GI americans strengthened the reputation of the perfume flagship of the house, the N°5.
After the war, however, is a decisive period for Chanel. On his return from exile, Coco Chanel discovered a France that was fascinated by the “New Look”of Christian Dior, a fashion opposite to the sobriety of women that had been able to impose, Miss.
Then at the age of 71, Gabrielle prepares his return. In 1954, the fashion House of the rue Cambon opens its doors again, and a new collection sees the light of day. The criticism is feeble but no matter, Chanel is back!!!

Romy Schneider in total look Chanel Slingback in 1962 © Dalmas – Sipa

As early as the late 50’s, the codes of the Chanel house is fine. In 1955, the quilted purse appears in its final version and the bag is top-stitched with gold chains is required.
In 1957, the sandals-to-end black, say, “Slingback”, see the light of day.
For Coco, it is the year of the coronation : the “creative one of the most influential of the Twentieth century” receives in Dallas an Oscar de la mode.
Next to perfumes, the house gives birth in 1955 to his first fragrance for men, “For Monsieur”. In the same year, Marilyn Monroe said not wearing that “some drops of N°5” to clothe the night : this is a new consecration.
Chanel is in the hearts of all the women who see this claw, the symbol of the French elegance.

Coco Chanel en 1970 © Associated Press AP – Sipa

On January 10, 1971, Coco Chanel died at the age of 88 years in the apartment of the Ritz that she held for over 20 years. The next day, his last couture collection is presented and wins critical acclaim.
Visionary, Coco Chanel left behind her 60 year career, as well as a style that she has been able to forge and impose according to their “likes and dislikes” personal.
Seven years after the disappearance of Mademoiselle, Philippe Guibourgé is entrusted with the responsibility of giving birth to the first line of ready-to-wearout of the house, soberly named “Chanel Shop”. The firstheld in the mesh of Chanel see the light of day. Even without its creator, the house endures…

Karl Lagerfeld during a final parade in 1984 © Laski – Sipa

For more than 10 years, the house of Chanel is less resounding. Miss is gone and find a successor to its measurement seems difficult.
To ensure the sustainability of the house, one character stands out : Karl Lagerfeld. The creator has made his weapons at Balmain before to collaborate, starting in the 1960s, with Fendi and especially Chloe. Happened in 1983 at Chanel, Lagerfeld makes his paw while keeping the codes of the house so dear to Mademoiselle. In 1986, he received, for his autumn-winter collection, the Golden Thimble award, price for the haute couture collection of the most creative of the year. The house Chanel has found his heir , and this is only the beginning of a long story !

Watch First for Chanel in the version 2018 © Chanel

The late 80s marks the beginning of an era of expansion for Chanel. After you have preferred the fashion, the brand creates watches Chanel in 1987 and a first boutique dedicated on the avenue Montaigne. In the same year, the shows “First” sees the light of day and mark the beginning of a long series of successes.
In 1993, Chanel pays homage to its creative and gives birth to a Chanel Jewelry. Four years later, the two poles are brought together, as at 18, place Vendôme. It is in this new prestigious address that the collection “Bijoux de Diamants” was re-edited in 2002.

On 19 February 2019, Karl Lagerfeld disappears. His death snaps immediately a wave of speculation about the future of the house of Chanel, so intimately linked to the “Kaiser”, as well as the names of the creators that are likely to succeed him eventually to a position as prestigious as exposed. But the bets are not long opened : a few hours after the announcement of the death of Karl, the house of Chanel to confirm the appointment of Virginie Viard, director of the studio, its very discreet right arm until now.

After a parade Cruise widely appreciated, Virginie Viard, embarks alone on stage for his first show in July 2019. During the parade Chanel haute couture fall-winter 2019-2020 at the Grand Palais, the artistic director book an interpretation very faithful to the couture of Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel. A new chapter opens for creations Chanel…


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