Viktor & Rolf, Chanel, Dior … live from the digital edition

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For this exceptional Haute Couture week, the houses have (almost) all delivered their fall-winter 2020-2021 collection online in formats that are more polished than each other. Focus.

For the first time in its history, the Haute couture was digital. During the three days of calendar official, the houses have in turn lifted the veil on their achievements for the season fall-winter 2020-2021. The kickoff was given on July 6 at 9 a.m. on the platform of the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion by Naomi Campbell which opened this unique edition of the Parisian parades week with a committed speech. The legendary top at the head of his own association (Fashion For Relief) took on the task of carrying a message of tolerance and hope by recalling the industry’s duty to include minorities and to represent them as well as possible.
Failing to hold parades run by professionals and customers all over the world, the houses had to make a completely virtual copy. The perfect opportunity to invent your mode of expression. While music video was the norm, each communicated in its own way in films ranging from 2 to 12 minutes. The result is sometimes enchanting, as with Dior and Aelis, the licked making-of of Guo Pei or Ralph & Russo, sometimes amusing, at Viktor and Rolf with comments from Mika or Julien Fournié, sometimes still, ultra fashion like at Alexandre Vauthier or Chanel. Rebels, houses Valentino and Margiela have unveiled not their collections but a teaser for future collections. Don’t miss anything from this digital Haute Couture week with our in-depth topics.

Fashion week calendar 2020

There will be no invitation cards, Federation shuttles, no front row or street style, but there is indeed a official calendar. Health crisis requires, July 6 to 8, 2020, Haute Couture week is held on the Internet. The opportunity for the houses to give free rein to their imagination to rethink the format of the traditional parade. Discover the program.

Monday July 6 Tuesday July 7 Wednesday July 8
10 a.m. – Schiaparelli 12 p.m. – Chanel 10 a.m. – Maison Margiela
11am – Ulyana Seergenko 1:30 p.m.- Alexis Mabille 11am – Franck Sorbier
12 p.m. – Iris Van Herpen 2 p.m. – Aganovich 11:30 am – Guo Pei
1 p.m. – Maurizio Galante 2:30 p.m. – Stéphane Rolland 12:30 p.m. – Elie Saab
2:30 p.m. – Christian Dior 3 p.m. – Yuima Nakazato 1:30 p.m. – Bouchra Jarrar
4 p.m. – Rabih Kayrouz House 3:30 p.m. – Julien Fournié 2 p.m. – Christophe Josse
5 p.m. – Ralph & Russo 4:30 p.m. – Alexandre Vauthier 3 p.m. – Andeline André
5.30 p.m. – Antonio Grimaldi 5 p.m. – Aelis 4 p.m. – Viktor and Rolf
6 p.m. – Xuan 5:30 p.m. – Rahul Mishra 5 p.m. – Julie de Libran
6.30 p.m. – Giambattista Valli 6 p.m. – Ronald Van Der Kemp 6 p.m. – Valentino
7:30 p.m. – Georges Hobeika 7:30 p.m. – Imane Ayissi

In the post-containment era, men’s fashion weeks and Haute Couture have opted for dematerialized meetings. Their collections were also hosted on the new platform SPHERE – Paris Fashion Week Showroom, in the form of a virtual show. But, as speculation rife on the next Paris fashion week 2020 scheduled for September. The Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion has ruled: the parade week will take place from September 28 to October 6. Regarding the risks incurred with the health crisis and the possibility of a “second wave” which continues to hover, the organization wants to be reassuring and ensures that it “will comply with the recommendations of the public authorities for its implementation”. Pending confirmation, it is behind our screens that Haute Couture week will be in full swing.

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It is the most popular event in fashion. The Paris Fashion Week always intervenes at the end of “fashion month”, after that of New York, London and Milan and is by far the most abundant in parades. Less “underground” than that of London and even richer than that of Milan and New York, its fame makes it the Holy Grail for most creators in the world. Large foreign houses like Valentino (Italy), Dries Van Noten (Belgium), Stella McCartney (England) also prefer Paris to their capital of origin to parade. Consequently, it concentrates a maximum of stars, muses and events on the fringes where to cross them.

Trademark, the Paris Fashion Week refers to all the parades that take place in Paris twice a year for women and two other times for men. It can also commonly refer to the week of haute couture fashion shows, but this is a misnomer. From an organizational point of view, the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion oversees it and facilitates relations between its various actors (buyers, photographers, journalists and designers). It also publishes the official parade calendar, assigning a place to each show.

The woman fashion week is the event that punctuates the fashion industry twice a year. In February and September, major brands unveil their ready-to-wear collection : clothes and accessories produced in series and not made to measure, intended for sale in the various points of sale. At the end of winter, the following autumn-winter collections are presented, while the spring-summer collections parade at the end of summer, almost a year in advance.

If more and more big cities organize their own fashion week (Tokyo, Seoul, Istanbul, Sao Paulo …), this one travels historically from New York to Paris via London then Milan, stopping for about a week in each of these four major fashion capitals.

Each house is then free to present its parade in the city of its choice, even if tradition dictates that the houses parade in the (fashion) capital of their country (Chanel in Paris, Prada in Milan, Burberry in London, Zac Posen in New York…). The houses invite their best customers, buyers, influential figures, stars and the press to relay the event.

During the two annual meetings high fashion Organized in Paris, some thirty fashion houses show off their exceptional creations which bear witness to genuine craftsmanship and contribute to their international influence. The collections presented there serve as a showcase for the houses: they will not be produced in large numbers, but made to measure for customers who request them. Each piece is therefore unique, corresponding to the desires (colors, details, length, etc.) of the customers. As the silhouettes offered do not require production time, unlike ready-to-wear, they are presented just before each season, in January for the spring-summer collections and the other in July for the fall-winter collections.

Thehigh fashion“, created in Paris by the couturier Charles Frederique Worth 1858 is a legally protected appellation., granted by a commission sitting at the Ministry of Industry. It is a French denomination, granted each year to houses of all nationalities which meet a certain number of precise criteria (such as handmade clothing, for example) and join the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, which has its origins in the 19th century. The official calendar features “members”, the “corresponding members” and the “invited members”.

The Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture is part of a larger group called Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion. The latter’s mission is in particular to support emerging brands, perpetuate houses already established, protect intellectual property and establish the calendar of collections presented in Paris.

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Nevertheless, the use of the term haute couture is today overused: few houses can claim the denomination and many are those to scroll on the sidelines of the official calendar. They therefore use the term sewing to designate their tailor-made and handmade collections.

The Louis Vuitton cruise 2015-2016 show © Rich Fury / AP / SIPA

The cruise collections, called cruise in English or even resort or pre-spring, are mid-season ready-to-wear collections that introduce spring-summer. Designed by Coco Chanel to dress her clients traveling to warm regions in winter, they make the transition between winter and spring. Today, they offer creations that are not quite winter nor quite summer which often constitute the extension of the ready-to-wear collections unveiled during Fashion Week. If the idea of ​​a cruise collection has already been exploited by major houses such as Christian Dior, Chanel, Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton for several years, these pre-collections are now enjoying real enthusiasm and are multiplying.

And while cruise collections were most of the time unveiled in photos or during presentations, they are now on the catwalks, an opportunity for fashion houses to strengthen their image and create the event, in particular by leaving the formal framework of fashion week or the haute couture week, by choosing an original destination. Dubai, New York, Seoul or Palm Springs, the houses take us to the four corners of the world to arouse enthusiasm. A flourishing business for fashion houses, which generate a significant portion of their turnover with cruise collections.

parade-trades-d-art-chanel-paris-salzbourg
The Métiers d’Art Paris-Salzburg show © Chanel

While the cruise collections introduce spring, the collections pre-fall make the transition between summer and fall. Less staged than their counterparts, the pre-fall collections are most often only photographed to present the clothes.

Chanel is one of the exceptions in this area since its collections Artistic careers – which pay homage to the eleven craft workshops acquired by the house since 1985 and which parade once a year in December – act as pre-fall collections. Since 2002, the house has traveled the world and unveils its Métiers d’Art collections in cities inspired by the life of Coco Chanel. Real events in the fashion world, these parades are also the subject of campaigns in story-telling ultra worked, like that of Cara Delevingne and Pharrell Williams in the short film Réincarnation, on the sidelines of the Paris-Salzburg fashion show.

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