Why Fashion Weeks no longer tell us how to wear makeup

The Paris Fashion Week has ended, and with it the monthly marathon of shows – the workers of the glossy industry exhaled and began to take stock. True, beauty editors from season to season have to draw up any reports more and more difficult – the reason for this is the fashionable makeup now “without makeup“. Every show, journalists writing about cosmetics try to find the difference between highlighter shades and pass off a small change as a supernew trend, but in the era of instagram, when the Internet is full of bright pictures, hardly anyone will be interested in flickering particles examined under a magnifying glass. Because of this, the behavior of make-up artists also changes – they are either faithful to that very “no makeup” makeup, or they go all out and paint a whole work on their face.

Stella McCartney Fall Winter 2019

Why “no makeup” makeup is in fashion right now

First, let’s figure out why it turned out that at most shows, makeup artists don’t even use mascara, which was in every cosmetic bag a few years ago.

Firstly, in modern society, the rights of people to feel comfortable in the body they are in are constantly being defended. So any discussion of weight, height, race or even gender is now prohibited. People are fighting for equality and tolerance. The words “thick” and “thin” smoothly pass into the category of indecent, as well as adjectives that determine skin color. Everyone tries to emphasize the peculiarity of their appearance – and in such times there simply cannot be clear trends dictating the concepts of beauty. In 2019, the progressive public is inclined to believe that every person is beautiful on his own – you can make yourself a little better, no one is against being “well-groomed”, but trying to be like someone and lose your zest is not in the rules of our time. A good tone and a little shine will not change your appearance – it will only make your face look fresh.

Secondly, the way we paint is influenced by the technical evolution of cameras. The better the quality of photos and videos becomes, the less makeup on our face we use. The “no makeup” make-up trend appeared almost simultaneously with selfies – you must admit that hardly anyone had photographed you so closely before that one could see the hairs on the eyebrows and unnecessary decorative means. Read more about this relationship here.

Bottega Veneta fall-winter 2019

Makeup as art

As a result, thanks to the fashion for a complete lack of makeup, we get a global new trend – makeup artists no longer try to dictate to us how to look more beautiful. Now they come up with whole pictures and images on their faces, behind which either lies the idea, or it’s just beautiful, but they have practically nothing to do with everyday life. But they look very cool on Instagram – it is interesting to consider them, to collect them in “saves”. For example, the creative director of makeup for Christian Dior Peter Philips he sometimes paints deliberately large eyelashes in the spirit of Twiggy, then he paints faces with incomprehensible hieroglyphs – in fact, it was a plexus of lines that repeated the movements of the dancers who performed during the show.

Christian Dior fall-winter 2019, spring-summer 2019

Approximately the same tactics is followed by Pat McGrath… Her makeup is almost always bright, it is interesting to look at it on Instagram – it is unlikely that the number of her subscribers would have reached two and a half million, if only radiant faces were on her profile. This season, the most popular makeup artist has come up with looks for Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Prada, Miu Miu, Valentino, Maison Margiela, JW Anderson, Paco Rabanne, Chloé, Versace. The list is impressive, but most of her ideas you are unlikely to ever see in society or “try” yourself. Unless there is a reason no less than the upcoming closure of Simachev.

Another makeup artist who makes art objects out of the faces of models is a young Australian Thomas de Clover, who was included last year in the list of the most influential people in fashion BOF 500. This season he worked for Acne Studios, Kenzo, Gucci, Rokh. Almost every time his art looks quite minimalist – no vulgar accents, always only matte shades and focus on one thing.

Models’ faces painted Isamayy Ffrench, which launched Dazed Beauty, also has little to do with the concept of female beauty in everyday life. Looking at the results of her work, you think about how she created it all – she made the lines deliberately sloppy, arranged colors, shaded funds. And you certainly do not expect her to advise on how to make your face more attractive with the help of cosmetics, but you just enjoy her artistic skill.

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